JOURNAL: Miscellaneous Notes

Just a few miscellaneous notes today on advice in living in Korea.

Tailoring and Clothes Shopping
I made a trip to Itaewon ("foreigner's district" - 8th Regiment Army Headquarters area) this afternoon, and checked into some tailoring for myself. My washing machine is rather harsh on stretching my clothes in places that, for modesty's sake, shouldn't be stretched! This point was driven home when I left this morning, and a group of boys in their upper teens followed me and shouted something. I turned around, a bit confused, and the leader gave the universal sign of appreciation, saying "Big!" and gesturing at his chest. I wished I could remember my new vocabulary word for "naughty" (the female, polite equivalent of f--- you in Korean) but could only think of the stronger word (which, interestingly enough, literally means "kick penis"), so I just glared and walked away. So much for my Korean lessons (we learned the bad words because they are often hurled at unwitting foreigners - I am afraid I have heard them already around the Korean branch of our school aimed at certain teachers).

While in Itaewon, I asked random hawkers about men's tailoring. As you may or may not know, the best tailors in the world are trained, and sometimes live, in Korea. Men, you might want to bring about $500 to get a couple of suits. I am VERY impressed with the quality of clothing here in general, but the men's suits are very expensive looking for a fraction of the cost. They allow you to pick the fabric for the suit,shirt, and tie. The locals also do an excellent job with leather - jackets, handbags, and wallets. They are used to larger built people there, at least men. Women are another story, as I found out.

I did score some nice blouses (more modest), a skirt, and a wrap around dress, al for just over 61,000 won. I found a new hole in the wall shop that caters to women above, oh, lets say, a size 6! The woman speaks excellent English and has a good eye for fashion. it is called "Big Boss" (!). There are also some shops that have suspiciously American brands. These clothes all have their information tags slashed or heavily damaged; I suspect there is some black marketing afoot.

Toilet Paper

In America, we have pay toilets; the Koreans are a bit more clever. You pay for toilet paper. There is a vending unit on the wall that dispenses TP for 200 won a pop (20 cents). The one I went into today did not work, so other measures had to be taken. Be warned, carry kleenex or TP. The Koreans use toilet paper for everything; if you spill something in a restaurant, chances are the hostess will bring you about two squares of TP to clean up. When I first got toilet paper for my apartment, the smallest packaging unit I could find had 12 rolls! Kleenex and paper towels, while available, are expensive as they are in low demand. Speaking of toilet paper....

Public Bathrooms

Public bathrooms are plentiful and easily accessible; they are in all of the subways stations and major markets. Vendors generally do not mind if you use the facilities without buying. Although Seoul has become more and more westernized, "squatters" still slightly outnumber "sitters." I will usually go out of my way to find a "sitter" as I cannot physically sit on my haunches without doing serious injury; fortunately, it is never very far. "Sitters" seem to be growing in popularity. Check the stalls before you enter; sometimes the TP is OUTSIDE the stall instead of inside. As plumbing is a bit of a problem in Seoul, Koreans toss used TP in a discreetly placed open garbage can behind the toilets, so close your eyes and do it (or risk flooding the bathroom!). The restrooms are generally clean and well-kept.

Ajimas

"Ajimas" are women who have had at least one child or look as though they are old enough to have had a child; in other words, not young virgins. Don't be offended if someone calls you "ajima" even if you are not. If you are slightly plump, as I am, do not feel insulted if someone asks about your due date! There is a seat on most trains reserved for pregnant women, and many helpful Koreans have suggested that I sit there instead of standing when it is crowded. If someone comments on you supposed pregnancy, it is meant to be flattering, not an insult. Today in Itaewon, an elderly woman tried to convince me to buy a baby-sized hanbok for my presumed forthcoming bundle of joy.

Korean TV

I have only seen bits and pieces of Korean television, as I do not have the 400,000 won it would take to hook up cable (network tv? forget it, not here in the city). No Christine, there are not middle aged naked dancing Elvises, but they do have a few inane dating shows. One memorable quiz show about dating etiquette blew blasts of air in the face of contestants who answered a question wrong. There are quite a few fashion and tabloid shows, as well as some over the top weepy melodramas. On vacation, I saw two episodes of a show called "Fashion 70s." The show, as near as I can tell, had plotlines including the Korean mafia and two toothsome young fashion school students who once-were-friends-but-now-are-rivals. Some guy gets shot in a bloodbath of activity, and passes out holding a white ivory elephant which was intended for one of the girls. This all takes place in the 1970s. The improbable plots and subplots are strangely compelling; what really saves the series is some very strong acting talent. Even though the dialogue was a mystery, the actresses were able to communicate well through some serious "METHOD ACTING" (Brando-style).